Pomodoro,Red Pear tomato Seeds. beefsteak- Italian vegetable – Heirloom Tomato CARIBBEAN GARDEN SEED

Pomodoro,Red Pear tomato Seeds. beefsteak- Italian Heirloom,NOT red pear cherry Tomato.

Pomodoro is a fantastic all-purpose tomato for fresh eating and cooking
Franchi’s Red Pear tomato is an old North Italian variety specially selected by Franchi Sementi. It is a red, pear-shaped beefsteak. An outstanding producer of huge (as in 8-18 ounce) very tasty fruit. Great fresh eating. Early for such a large plant (70-75 days). This is not the small pear shaped tomato called red pear by U.S. seed companies. Pear shaped with vertical ribs – a must try. Really meaty containing few seeds. Indeterminate. 
Description/Taste
The Red Pear Piriform tomato is medium sized, approximately seven to nine ounces, with overall reddish-orange colored skin that fades into green on the shoulders. As its name alludes, it is pear-shaped with slightly indented lobes. It has a meaty, juicy texture and sweet, rich flavors with moderate acid levels. The tomato plant is an indeterminate, also known as a climbing or vining variety, meaning that the fruit ripens over an extended period along sprawling vines, which is why they are often recommended for trellising or caging. 

Current Facts
The Red Pear Piriform is an heirloom variety of Solanum lycopersicum, belonging to the nightshade family alongside the potato and eggplant. The word “piriform” in the name refers to this tomato’s curious lobed pear shape. All heirloom tomato cultivars, like the Red Pear Piriform, are open-pollinated, meaning that seeds from the variety will produce offspring that are identical to the parent. With a little care to prevent cross-pollination, seeds can be saved that will produce identical tomatoes year after year. 
When to start inside: 
RECOMMENDED. 6 to 8 weeks before average last frost.
Harvesting: Harvest tomatoes when fully colored and firm. About 1 month before the average first fall frost, clip all blossoms and any undersized fruit off the plant. This will steer all the plant’s remaining energy into ripening what’s left. If you have a lot of underripe tomatoes near the end of the season, and a frost is approaching, pick them and store them indoors in a single layer away from direct sunlight to ripen.
When to sow outside: 
Recommended for mild winter climates only: 1 to 2 weeks before average last frost and when soil temperatures are at least 60°F
Vegetable Seed Saving: 

Allow tomatoes to over-ripen on plants; then collect seeds. Let seeds ferment in the tomato. Clean and dry the seeds before storage in cool dry conditions.

Bio Dome seed starter is a great way to sow Tomato seeds, because each Bio Sponge has a pre-drilled hole you just drop one seed into — no need to thin seedlings, no wasting of seeds! You can use either the original 60-cell Bio Dome, or our 18-cell Jumbo Bio Dome, which grows big, stocky seedlings ready to transplant right into your garden.

Place your Bio Dome in a 70- to 75-degree room, or just use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature in the dome. You should see the first sprouts in 3 to 8 days. As soon as your sprouts are up, place the seedlings under strong light.

If you’re using a potting mix, sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed. You can also use our convenient Jiffy Pots and Strips — Jiffy Pots are constructed entirely of lightweight, sturdy peat moss, so as the roots develop, they eventually grow right through the Jiffy Pot wall and into the garden soil!
Fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is ideal for fastest growth. Keep your seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don’t “stretch” and get “leggy.” If you don’t have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too — just keep the clear dome on your Bio Dome to protect your seedlings from those chilly drafts!
Planting Out
About 2 weeks before your transplant date work the garden soil thoroughly, adding generous amounts of compost and about 4 pounds of fertilizer (5-10-10 is ideal) for every 100 square feet. Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you’re ready to plant.

Ten days before transplanting, you’ll need to start “hardening off” your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise.

When planting, bury the stem almost up to the lowest set of leaves, even if this means covering up several extra inches. If your plants have a long, tall, spindly stem with leaves widely spaced, you can plant them horizontally in the ground right up to the first set of leaves — the plant will root all along its stem. Just dig a long trench a few inches below the soil, lay the plant carefully into it as if you’re burying it, and then gently angle the stem upwards, so that the only part showing is the very top, with at least 4 to 6 leaves aboveground. Strip the underground leaves off the plant and cover up the entire length of “leggy” stem. Be careful not to bend the stem so sharply that it breaks — bank it with soil and pat the earth down firmly around it.

As soon as your Tomatoes are in the ground, mulch heavily around the plants to keep weeds down and moisture in the soil. If you’re growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch (such as straw or pine bark)

Select your desired size and color from the available option